If you’re looking for a respite from the city and would like to look at some mountains and do some hiking, I would recommend the hike from Kurama to Kibune. Just half an hour away from downtown Kyoto, this trip will offer you some nice scenery and fresh and cool mountain air. Here is a step by step how to undertake the hike.
A hike is recommended from Kurama to Kibune in the SUMMER as you could rest at one of the ryokan restaurants built over the waterfalls. If it’s WINTER, walk from Kibune to Kurama as you will be rewarded with hot springs near Kurama for your aching feet. However, the noodle restaurant I am about to recommend is NOT open during the winter.
It was mid-September when I undertook this hike, therefore I started from Kurama. It is VERY IMPORTANT to note that the hike from Kurama to Kibune is much better than Kibune to Kurama. If you start in Kibune, the steps are steeper and more strenuous.
HOW TO GET THERE
I lived at Gion-Shijo, so I took the Keihan train northbound to Demachiyahgani and transferred to the Eizan Electric Railway. Demachiyahgani to Kurama station should cost 350 yen. I had the Kansai 3 Day Pass (click to buy) so I had unlimited travel on all the Kyoto subway/train lines (excluding JR). It is highly recommended to use the 3 day pass.
Once we got out of the station turn left and walk up a path, just for 100m and immediately you will spot a temple at the top of the hill right before your eyes. Walk up the steps to enter. This will be the beginning of many steps to come. Hope you wore proper shoes!
Once you pass the gate at the very top you will see a very nice old man to your right and you need to pay him 300 yen for a mountain climbing pass. He will hand to you a map of the hiking trail which is quite useful. Make sure you ask him for the English version or else he will just automatically hand you the Japanese version (maybe he thinks all asians are Japanese?).
The hike will take approximately 1.5- 2.5 hours depending on how fast you walk and whether you stop to explore the temple and shrines along the way. There is a lot to see and I suggest taking it slowly. Why rush? There is supposedly a cable car along the path (as you can see from the map), but it was under renovation when I went (renovation ends March 2016); thus we had to walk the whole way. The trail is a mix of a steep hill and some steps and the air is very cool and refreshing.
Here are some photos I took along the way
After Kurama Temple, the steps will get easier! Looking at more stairs to climb up may make you want to cry, but hold in there for a little more. Enjoy the view from the temple! In case you’re wondering, the trees will start changing colour during late October- November.
Once you see these Cedar Tree Roots, then you can finally breathe a sigh of relief. Congratulations, the worst part of the hike is over. Now the trail will only go downwards for here.
The trail downwards is quite steep and while you’re walking down, you will feel very relieved that you listened to my warning about starting the walk from Kurama. The walk from Kurama only consisted of staircases and comfortable walking slopes; but from Kibune, the walk upwards involves steep staircases made out of root (not stone) and narrow paths.
Keep walking downwards until you hear the sound of water- now you’re getting close to the exit. When you’ve finally reached the exit, the best part is yet to come. You have now entered the village of Kibune. All along the village are restaurants with ryokan seating that span across the waterfall. You can enjoy lunch or dinner while enjoying the cool breeze from the waterfall and the rushing water below you.
Each restaurant will boast about a meal that range from 5,000-13,000 yen, but don’t fall for the tourist trap! Be smart! There are A LOT of restaurants along the path and there is bound to be one restaurant that is affordable. Hence, after some consultation with my very important Lonely Planet guide, we headed off to Hirobun, a noodle shop. They shoot cold noodles out of bamboos and you have to catch it with your chopsticks and dip it in soy sauce before eating it. You pay for the experience and you have this amazing view by the waterfall. Note, Hirobun’s secret noodle shop is not open during winter. It is about a 10-15 minute walk north from the exit of the hike, so don’t give up and don’t walk into those 13,000 yen restaurants.
Note of the Japanese name and not the English, as you will see only the Japanese letters outside the restaurant. Once you arrive, let the waiter know you’re here for the noodles and she will ask you to pay first, 1. Then you will get a number and an instruction card and they will tell you to head downstairs.
The cold noodle experience is awesome and I would highly recommend it to anyone. It is a good value for money, and you get to enjoy the view as well.
The Cold Noodle Experience
Noodles will shoot out from the bamboo tunnel. You have to catch it with your chopsticks! See the blob of white? That’s noodles!
There are two tunnels, one for you and one for your friend. Remember to keep track of which tunnel you take your noodles from– don’t take other people’s noodles!
How much does it cost?
The restaurant offers two options, one is a dine-in option where you can choose your meal from a set menu (I believe). Prices range from 5000-13000 yen and you get a nice seat by the waterfall. The second option is the cold noodle experience which costs 1300 yen/pp. This includes some cold noodles with some small condiments to the side to go with the soba (green onions). That’s it! I would definitely try out the cold noodle experience.
Do you get full from the cold noodles?
I would say, about 60% full. It is just a light snack, unless you are looking to dish out 5000-6000 yen for a set meal, this is your best option.
Dip your cold noodles in soba before you eat!
After enjoying cold noodles at the restaurant, there isn’t much left to do in Kibune. You could go to the Kibune Club for some coffee (500 yen for a cup) but other than that, it’s time to head back to Kyoto.
Walk in the other direction than where you came from (south) and walk for about 2 km before you reach Kibune Railway Station (about a 30 minute walk depending on your speed). It’s a very nice walk back to the station and you can take your time enjoying the scenery. Take the Eizan Railway back to Kyoto.