How to Explore Lake District without a car

Lake Windermere

During this COVID-19 period, even with cities easing the lockdown restrictions, my husband and I were still spending most of our days at home. We’ve been just going out for groceries, we revisited some of the outdoor markets, but around 50% of London was still closed. After one month of doing nothing (we spent two weeks in self-quarantine), I decided to plan a trip to Lake District National Park. It has been on my list of Go-Tos for a long time, but I never got to visit five years ago when I studied at Imperial College. It was a perfect holiday destination because we were more interested with the hiking trails rather than visiting the the touristy Dove cottages, Woodsworth houses, Beatrix Potter’s house (sorry Peter Rabbit). Those were ALL closed anyway which was fine for us. Disclaimer: I visited Lake District from July 19-23, 2020.

Therefore my post will be centered on where we went during COVID-19 era focusing on fabulous walking routes, mountain ranges, and where to eat during this time. Where else should you go than to practice social distancing up in the mountains? Thankfully, around 70% of the shops were open in the village when I visited. Imagine going to visit a small quaint British village only to find none of the shops open! What will you do for the next hour until the bus comes? Also, our main mode of transportation was train + bus which suited us very well. We were very thankful that there is an awesome bus system in the Lake District which allows those without a car to be able to get around and see all the attractions!

Where should be my basepoint?

Windermere (note: NOT Bowness-Windermere – there is a difference!) was the town I chose to stay in throughout my 4 day 3 night trip, as it is the largest town with different attractions nearby. I debated between Windermere and Ullswater, but chose Windermere instead as Pooley Bridge in Ullswater is under construction so traffic/busses were limited as of Summer 2020. Windmere is the biggest lake in the park and one of the most popular places to stay in the Lake District. It offers a bit of everything, from lake cruises, hiking and cafes to Beatrix Potter’s former home. If this is your first time to Lake District, the Windermere is the best choice for you. There are other lakes in Lake District, most of them available by taking the bus, but they are about 2-3 hours away and may not be worth it.

How do I get around Lake District without a car?

By bus! There is an awesome bus system in Lake District which is very accessible. If you are planning on taking the bus frequently, then I suggest booking a BNB beside Windermere train station. There is a bus stop right outside the station which made it very convenient. My BnB was just a pleasant two minute walk from the train station (scroll down for places to live in Windermere). Planning your itinerary really centers around the bus routes/schedules so I suggest you familiarize yourself with the map of Central Lakes First.

Bus map of Windermere and bus connections. Exploring the Central Lakes is enough if you’re here for three days. (Source: Stagecoachbus)

Of course if you want to get a bigger sense of the different districts in Lake District, here is a bigger map of the other regions. They are split into different regions because there is a different price point. If you visit two regions in a day, then it is more expensive than just exploring Central Lakes on its own.

Full map of bus connections to other lakes – to see a higher res version with bus timetables, click here (map is on the second last page of the PDF)

Recommended BnBs/hotels to stay in Lake District

The Cottage £ – was a lovely Bnb that I booked via booking.com. Situated very close to the train station, it is about a short two minute walk from the station. Room size is a little small for my taste, but manageable. Walls thick enough so you don’t hear people talking in the other rooms or cars outside (so important!)

Dunvegan £ – was recommended to us by a friend who had an excellent stay there. The host is super nice and we booked this originally, but I was looking for somewhere that was more bus connections. Dunvegan is about a 15 minute walk from the train station (walkable, a pleasant down-hill walk) or you could take bus 555 to Library (bus stop name) and walk from there.

Cutest airbnb home – Micro Home by Windermere £ – this is where I wanted to stay originally but I was unable to snag a room here! If you do, book it quick and let me know how your stay was.

Low Wood Bay £££ – spectacular location with great views from the hotel, a bit in the middle of Windermere and Ambleside but still accessible by bus 555 and 599 from Windermere train station and arriving right at the doorstep of the hotel. This is where I’d stay if I had money to splurge.

3 Day Itinerary in Windermere and Central Lakes Zone

This is an abbreviated version of my 3 day itinerary in Windermere, to see the complete itinerary, read on here.

Day One – Explore around Bowness and two hiking trails

  • Arrive in Winderemere in the afternoon, check-into BnB/hotel.
  • Explore Bowness-on-Windermere (a lovely 20 minute walk from the train station) — no need to buy a bus ticket!
  • Go for a 60 minute lake cruise and Windermere and see the lake from a boat. Choose the Bowness Circular Cruise with Social Distancing route as there are different routes with different starting points. Tickets MUST be booked in advance due to social distancing. Book via here.
  • If you are already in Bowness, then why not embark on Gummer’s How hiking trail (easy and family friendly) hiking trail for spectacular views of Lake Windermere from above?
View from Gummer’s How hiking trail
View from Gummer’s How hiking trail
View from Gummer’s How hiking trail
  • Explore around Bowness, there are some shops to explore, Costa coffee if you’re interested, and plenty of ice cream shops. If you are looking for the best ice cream in Winderemere, check out The Little Ice Cream Shop (near Windermere train station, not Bowness).
  • What better way to top The Lake District’s natural beauty than to add a sunset? The way sunlight reflects off the water and paints the fells is simply magical. For sunsets in Windermere, climb Orrest Head which is very easily accessible as it located in the street across from the train station. There is a very clear sign that the path is the start of Orrest Head hiking trail. I would 100% recommend everyone do this hike, as the top presents panoramic views of Windermere.
Sunset views from Orrest Head
Sunset views from Orrest Head
View from Orrest Head

Day Two – Explore Ambleside and Grasmere

  • Bus 599 or 555 to Ambleside, just 15 minutes away by bus from Windermere. Ambleside is located at the northern end of Lake Windermere, but note that if you get off at the bus in Ambleside, it is a 30 minute walk to the lake. Good news is, if you want to get off by the lake, the bus stops at Lakeside Pier (press the button to let the driver know or else he’ll just whizz by!).
  • Ambleside is another small town just like Bowness and there are plenty of shops and cafes to explore. When I visited in July 2020, 80% of the shops were open. If you’re looking for a cafe, visit The Apple Pie Cafe and try their apple pies for a very cheap price! (Half pies for £ 4 – it was the size of my face!)
  • Grasmere is less than 10 minutes by bus from Ambleside and it is a very small town. You could easily finish exploring it in less than 30 minutes. Everyone who visits this little town must stop by the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop and try out their delicious gingerbread cookies £6-£10. I also tried their gingerbread ice cream for £3, delicious but a little overpriced.
  • Rydal Caves involves a slightly uphill hike to see it, with the option of continuing on to a lovely walk by Rydal Water. Take bus 555 or 599 from Ambleside or Windermere and get off at Church for Rydal Mount station. You can also walk from Ambleside here, a very leisurely stroll, about 60 minutes.

Day Three – Quaint country village of Hawkshead & Coniston with Loughrigg Fell walk for amazing views

  • Take Bus 505 from Windermere train station in the direction of Coniston. Get off at Hawkshead village, you’ll recognize it once you arrive — a picturesque village with white washed houses, archways, and alleyways (very Instagrammable). Make sure to try out their famous ice cream from The Little Ice Cream Shop.
  • Continue with Bus 505 to Coniston, another lovely village with white houses. Lake Coniston is a pleasant walk from the village (20 minutes), but I found the pier to be very crowded with A LOT of people. I would recommend walking along the riverline to Monk Coniston Car Park where the views are equally amazing with just a handful of people.
  • Take the bus back to Ambleside to begin your walk of Loughrigg Fell. This hiking walk should be taken on a sunny days for spectacular views up on the mountain. Loughrigg Fell is a highly popular walk with 360 views from the summit which is very impressive and popular for sunsets.